FOR XMAS, TREAT YOURSELF TO A TRIP TO MILAN DISCOVERING THE NEW ROUTE OF LUXURY

By Patrizia Rossato Mari

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Meglio di un relais in montagna o di una fuga nelle baie lapislazzulo di Antigua: eletta da Time ‘città dell’anno’ all’indomani del poderoso restyling urbano con cui si era preparata a ospitare Expo, Milano nel periodo dell’Avvento è tutta un vibrare di skyline illuminati, di visionari scorci architettonici in toni fluo, di scale-piazze-arcate-guglie-facciate che fiotti di luce lanciati da centinaia di riflettori fanno risplendere come quinte fiabesche, di vie del lusso in gara per il primato dell’addobbo e del decor più raffinato; Milano insomma è la capitale che, a tutti gli amanti dell’arte e del lifestyle italiano, a fashion-victim e turisti gourmand, auguriamo di scoprire (o ri-scoprire) in questo volgere di fine d’anno.

Come sempre, il team di Formaessenza ha tracciato per voi un itinerario inusuale e controcorrente per celebrare la magia del Natale ma anche per offrirvi la migliore esperienza di una metropoli che ha fatto dell’offerta culturale e della valorizzazione del patrimonio storico-architettonico il proprio benchmark. Senza dimenticare quella particolare cifra stilistica che, ben oltre le patinate griffe del lusso mondiale, sono i dettagli chic ed essenziali di storiche boutique e un’atmosfera intrisa di memorie borghesi ma piena di energia, a riverberare mentre camminiamo nelle strette vie della città delle Cinque Giornate, all’incirca le stesse del Quadrilatero del lusso, o lungo gli ariosi viali su cui affacciano i prestigiosi palazzi nobiliari, o infine in quel cuore nobile e archeologico che è rappresentato dal Distretto delle Cinque Vie, vera babele di gallerie e di atelier dal fascino retro.

Il nostro punto di partenza si trova in via Monte di Pietà, alle spalle di via Montenapoleone, epicentro delle sommosse risorgimentali del 1848 che portarono alla momentanea liberazione della città dal dominio asburgico. Non lontano da dove allora si eressero le barricate, s’affacciano le vetrine di uno degli indirizzi più hot dell’arte contemporanea: la Galleria Building. Di proprietà di un antiquario esperto di arte tessile con sede storica in via Brera, lo spazio su più livelli di questo hub creativo ospita in queste settimane (fino al 22 dicembre) un evento eccezionale: la prima mostra milanese di Jan Fabre, poliedrico artista olandese di fama mondiale e nome di punta di una ricerca tesa a oltrepassare le barriere espressive. Un’installazione site specific e una selezione di lavori in gran parte inediti creano un percorso tematico incentrato sui due temi ricorrenti dei castelli e dell’Ora blu, ovvero quel momento di totale silenzio sospeso tra la fine della notte e l’inizio del giorno in cui si attivano misteriosi processi di metamorfosi. I castelli ritratti nell’Ora blu rivelano il lato più spirituale e romantico dell’arte di Fabre, proiezione e metafora di una mente d’artista in cui l’atto creativo necessiti di un’incubazione di tenebre e silenzio.

A breve distanza, via Romagnosi 3 è un indirizzo che fa parte integrante della storia di Milano: a duecento metri dal Teatro alla Scala, ha ospitato per oltre mezzo secolo la Fondazione Giangiacomo Feltrinelli. Rinnovato nel segno di un design eclettico e molto glam anche se nel rispetto conservativo dei materiali originali ereditati dall’Ottocento, il piano terra è ora sede di Identità Golose, ristorante stellato e laboratorio creativo di alta cucina, ideale per una cena a lume di candela magari seduti nel giardino d’inverno realizzato come cubo magico dalle pareti trasparenti. Siete così giunti nel cuore del nostro itinerario: il quartiere delle Belle Arti, delle gallerie, dei tanti locali e bistrò dove per secoli si sono intrattenuti artisti e scrittori, del Palazzo in cui Maria Teresa d’Austria istituì a fine Settecento l’Accademia e che, ampliato in epoca napoleonica (come ci rammenta, nel cortile interno, il monumento all’Imperatore opera di Antonio Canova), divenne sede di una delle più prestigiose pinacoteche dell’Italia unitaria; siete cioè giunti nel quartiere di Brera. Tra tante stradine e vicoli brulicanti di passanti a tutte le ore, vi segnaliamo quella maestra, via Brera, seguendo la quale arriverete proprio all’Accademia. Non tutti sanno infatti che, oltre che di gallerie e colorifici (come lo storica cartoleria ‘Rigadritto’, vera chicca per appassionati del settore), via Brera è sede dei più ricercati brand di profumi di Milano, come Campomarzio 70 dove cultura e arte delle essenze si coniugano. Rinunciamo in questo breve reportage a un excursus descrittivo di uno dei gioielli milanesi, Palazzo Brera, sede dell’Accademia, della Pinacoteca e della Biblioteca, e degli annessi Osservatorio e Orto Botanico; ma non a raccomandarvi di visitare almeno per una cioccolata calda il Caffè Fernanda sito al primo piano, ovattata nicchia dalle pareti verde petrolio e sedie rosa confetto, dove, alle spalle di un tripudio di brioches e pasticcini, una grande tela di fattura ottocentesca ci rammemora come, per tutto il secolo del trionfante liberalismo, in cui videro luce i quadri emblematici del più insigne dei romantici italiani Francesco Hayez e le opere di Manzoni e Verdi, patrimonio identitario in cui l’Italia unitaria si riconobbe, Milano sia stata più di una capitale europea:  ovvero un epicentro mondiale di irradiazione culturale. By PM ———————————–

 

Better than a mountain relais or an escape into the lapislazuli sea of Antigua: elected by Time ‘city of the year’ in the aftermath of the massive urban restyling with which it was prepared to host Expo, Milan in the Advent period is a whole vibrate of illuminated skyline, visionary architectural glimpses in fluorescent tones, stair-squares-arches-spiers-facades that flares of light thrown by hundreds of spotlights make shine like fairy-like scenes, luxury streets competing for the primacy of the adobe and of the most refined decor; in short, Milan is the capital that, to all lovers of Italian art and lifestyle, to fashion-victims and gourmand tourists, we wish to discover (or re-discover) this end of the year.
As always, Formaessenza team has drawn for you an unusual and countercurrent itinerary to celebrate the magic of Christmas but also to offer you the best experience of a metropolis that has made the cultural offer and the enhancement of the historical-architectural heritage its benchmark. Without forgetting that particular style that, well beyond the glossy labels of world luxury, are the chic and essential details of historic boutiques and an atmosphere full of bourgeois memories but also of energy, to reverberate as we walk through the narrow streets of the city of ‘Cinque Giornate’, roughly the same as the ‘Quadrilatero del lusso’, or along the airy avenues on which overlook the prestigious noble palaces, or finally in that noble and archaeological heart that is represented by the Cinque Vie district, true babel of galleries and workshops.

Our starting point is located in Via Monte di Pietà, behind Via Montenapoleone, epicenter of the Risorgimento riots of 1848 which led to the momentary liberation of the city from the Habsburg domination. Not far from where the barricades stood, the windows of one of the hottest addresses of contemporary art look out: the Building Gallery. Owned by an antiquarian expert in textile art with a historical site in Via Brera, the multi-level space of this creative hub hosts an exceptional event in these weeks (until December 22nd): the first Milanese exhibition by Jan Fabre, a versatile Dutch artist world famous and the top name of a research aimed at overcoming expressive barriers. A site-specific installation and a selection of largely unpublished works create a thematic itinerary focusing on the two recurring themes of the castles and the Blue Hour, that moment of total silence suspended between the end of the night and the beginning of the day in which mysterious processes of metamorphosis are activated. The castles portrayed in the Blue Hour reveal the most spiritual and romantic side of the art of Fabre, projection and metaphor of an artist’s mind in which the creative act requires an incubation of darkness and silence.

A short distance away, via Romagnosi 3 is an address that is an integral part of the history of Milan: two hundred meters from the Teatro alla Scala, it has hosted the Giangiacomo Feltrinelli Foundation for over half a century. Renewed in the sign of a very eclectic and glamorous design, even though conservatively respecting the original materials inherited from the nineteenth century, the ground floor is now the home of Identità Golose, a starred restaurant and a creative haute cuisine workshop, ideal for a romantic candle light dinner maybe sitting in the winter garden realized as a magic cube with transparent walls. You have thus reached the heart of our itinerary: the district of Fine Arts, of galleries, of many bars and bistros where artists and writers have been entertained for centuries, of the Palace where Maria Theresa of Austria set up the Academy at the end of the eighteenth century, which, enlarged in the Napoleonic era (as, in the inner courtyard, the monument to the Emperor work by Antonio Canova reminds us), became the seat of one of the most prestigious picture galleries of unified Italy; that is, you have come to the Brera district. Among many streets and alleys teeming with passers-by at all hours, we point out via Brera, following which you will arrive at the Academy. Not everyone knows that, in addition to galleries and paint factories (such as the historical stationery ‘Rigadritto’, a real gem for fans of the sector), via Brera is home to the most sought-after perfume brands in Milan, such as Campomarzio 70 where culture and art essences are coniugated. We renounce in this brief report to elaborate on the description of one of the Milanese jewels, Palazzo Brera, home to the Academy, the Pinacoteca and the Library, and the annexed Observatory and Botanical Garden; but not to recommend to visit at least for a hot chocolate the Fernanda Cafe located on the first floor, covered niche with oil green walls and pink candy chairs, where, behind a riot of brioches and pastries, a large canvas of nineteenth-century invoice reminds us as, throughout the century of triumphant liberalism, of emblematic paintings by the most distinguished of the Italian romantics Francesco Hayez and of masterpieces by Manzoni and Verdi, an identity Heritage of unified Italy, Milan was rather a world epicenter of cultural irradiation than an european capital.

About The Patrizia Rossato Mari

Co-founder FormaEssenza, Research and Content Manager

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